IX Blog Toto Travels
19 May
The Mikes arrive!
Good morning, County Clare. Joan fixes a great breakfast. It is definitely the thing to do in the British Isles, reportedly from the custom of a full day in the fields or at work with a wee bit o cheese n bread or something similar midday - so it is the "Full Irish" or "Full Scottish" or "Full English" depending on your location. We opted for porridge, breads and fruit. Coffee for me and tea for Karen, although I have been drinking my fair share of tea. My Granny Davidson taught me the proper way to have English Tea - in retrospect, I am not sure how she learned the "proper way" - she was 3 when she became an orphan of Scot-Irish parents, so I suspect it was from her adopted mother, Ida Moore.
Lakeside County Home has an absolutely wonderful setting. It sits back from R473 a bit down a short curvy lane. The spectacular part is the lovely bay window sitting area that overlooks a small lough (Killone Lough) and the ruins of Killone Abbey amidst gentle hills covered with lush vegetation. It is framed as you look through a large bay window by a lovely garden. Can you tell I am enchanted with the place since I described it in the last post as well!
Joan is a woman of few words., but well- chosen ones. Her weather forecasts were concise with a qualifier. "It's promised to be clear this afternoon....maybe." or
"Clear this morning, maybe."
She recommended a trip to Quin Abbey ruins for a quick stop before we pick up my Mike around 11:00. Setting off to Quin through Ennis was easy down the typical narrow rural roads. We could see the ruins and turned too early, but got some nice photos. A stop at the chemist - I needed the toilet, of course - was helpful info as well. She told me how to get to the abbey ruins and I picked up a couple of items I needed.
Another cold, blustery day with intermittent showers at church ruins, brrr. The man at the little office was very nice and helpful with info about the ruins as well as info about what to see around the Burren. We were both fascinated with the full grassy area on the second level of the ruins and it was fun to tromp around up and down the stone stairs even if it was a freezing cold wind through the ruins.
We tarried a bit too long, had to skip the abbey ruins, and made a dash back to the car as it was starting to rain. Karen was hurrying and ran up to a silver car (there are loads of silver cars here), yanked open the door and scared the living daylights out of the woman in the driver seat and Karen herself as well. When I turned to see what her squeal was about, I doubled over laughing.
Karen has been so great about my driving. I had quite a lot of trouble hugging the left shoulder at first and it is still something I have to take care. Her gasp is usually the signal to check my location in the lane. A couple of bumps over a curb and a few brief wanders off the shoulder, but so far no damage to car or body. Karen has been apologizing for the "gasp" - especially if it proves to be unwarranted. Today, from one of my many wrong turns, I backed into a wide driveway to turn around and there was a brick wall there. For a change, I really did know where the car was. Karen was NOT gasping but suddenly flailing her hands in the air concerned about the brick wall. That was a new move and it struck me funny - I had the giggles for quite a while mostly because a flail was a new move for Karen. At least it looked like flailing hands to me.
Going back into Ennis, we were running late to drop Karen off at Lakeside for me to pick up Mike. And, naturally, we got lost in Ennis. So Karen had to go to the airport with me. Again, she was ever so great about the abrupt change of plan.
We arrived at the airport just as Mike walked out of the arrival area.....with NO bag. He might have to dress like a local! We may have to find the equivalent to Marks and Spencer in England or maybe like a Wal-Mart.
He was ready for lunch, so after some discussion, we decided to try the pub across from Quin Abbey which Karen had noted was open all day and Joan and the chemist lady had recommended as well. Of course there was a pub by the Abbey and Church.
It was a delicious lunch - Mike had fish and chips of course, and so did I.
After lunch and driving back to the BnB to get settled there was not enough time to do anything else before we picked up Karen's Mike.
Due to the change in plan, Mike and Karen were now renting a car at Shannon, and we were going to extend a day since Dublin was not desirable due to all the activity.
My Mike checked on his bag which was in Zurich. (seriously?) Mike quipped, "My bag's having a better vacation than I am."
We were told it would be in on thee late flight in from Manchester that night. Right...
Got the extra day added to the car and added Mike as a driver - it's only money - sigh.
Back to Lakeside to freshen up and regroup. The Kennedys got their car, a silver (silver! What a surprise) Renault, much nicer than our Suzuki Alto.
After oohing and ahhing over Lakeside again, we headed to Ennis for dinner. Mike K drove in their roomier car and it was nice to let him drive. He was getting oriented to a left side road and a standard gearshift as well, so it was a little tricky at times. Karen did seem intent on avoiding gasping however, or probably she was much more confident in Mike's driving than in mine.
Parking at a car park on the River Fergus, we meandered through Ennis considering places to eat. We settled on dinner at Poet's Corner at The Old Ground Hotel across the street from the big church in the center of town. It was a busy place.
We crowded around the bar, but then were fairly quickly given a table. My Mike had a lager, but the rest of us had Guinness. There is not much better than a Guinness on tap in Ireland.
The food was great. I had seafood chowder which was the best chowder base I have ever had - creamy with a light red base as well. A great place to eat and a nice evening with the four of us.
Tomorrow we go our separate ways, but will take the same basic route around the Burren of County Clare. Joan's words of weather, "If it's rain in the morn, go opposite way and end at Cliffs of Moher - hope for better weather."
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Kenmare to Shannon via Adare
VIII BLOG Toto travels
18 May
Traveling toward Shannon Airport
Rising refreshed, we were glad to have yesterday behind us. Although this morning, I could appreciate the beautiful countryside and seaside we had seen yesterday. The frustration and fatigue of the long travel had dimmed and the scenic journey was at least equal in my mind. I am not sure Karen felt that way yet.
Breakfast was served at 9:10, we certainly wanted to be spot-on for that! And it was lovely. Marian was a most gracious hostess, asked us about our evening and wished us well on our journey.
I still find the narrow streets and traffic daunting as we try to find our way through Kenmare and toward Killarney. I am excited to go through Killarney even though I know we won't spend much, if any, time there. We ended up taking a different route to Killarney, probably because I wasn't listening to my navigator Karen. But we arrived in good shape through beautiful lush greens with flowers blooming all around. I saw the turn to Muckross House and went to check that out. So we actually saw a bit of Killarney National Forest and parked and walked up to Muckross House in the blustery wind. There were lads with horse drawn carriages taking people around the lake. One offered us a ride. I said, "Oh, it's too cold." he called warmly to Karen, "I have a blanket to wrap you and keep you warm." She just laughed, he was quite charming.
Spent a while at Muckross House grounds garden - wow, beautiful does not begin to describe the well groomed, lushly growing flora everywhere. Azaleas were amazing - giants! We did not take time to tour the house, although it was obviously splendid.
The next stop was for lunch in Adare in County Limerick, the 2010 "Tidy Town" winner. It is truly charming. We spent a while shopping in the cold wind and rain - yet again, then had a quick lunch at the Dove Cot restaurant in the Adare Heritage Center tourist building. Very good quiche and a great scone!
The countryside continues to be charming, stunning, wonderful, amazing greens with sheep sheep sheep, cows, horses and pubs next to every church (sometimes even attached to the church).
The priest/rector at the Church of Ireland in Adare chatted with us quite a while and then gave us directions - exact ones on how to get to Ennis without going through the industrial town of Limerick. Saved us at least 30 minutes and a whole lot of STRESS. He smiled when we thanked him and said, " Oh, you don't want to go through Limerick, it's CRAZY" as he waved his hand in the air. We have been adopted and tutored by many an Irishman or woman - so very friendly and accommodating. The Irish seem to be one of the most genuinely friendly folk on our planet. When they hear our American accent - which is after one or two, at most, words - they become instant ambassadors.
Now on we go Ennis to find our BnB which is out in the country, Lakeside Country Lodge.
The roads are narrow and crazy unless you are on a motorway. Speed limits appear to be somewhat less than a guideline or suggestion, maybe just a formality? NO ONE pays the slightest attention, driving way faster or very slowly - it's always a road adventure.
We successfully avoided Limerick and took the tunnel under the Shannon and we were on the road to Galway, although we will stop well before Galway (sadly). Taking note of the exit for the Shannon airport, we knew about where we had to go to pick up our hubbies tomorrow.
Karen had the written step-by-step directions to Lakeside which is a good thing! She is great at navigating, she keeps me out of trouble. Of course, every now and then I don't listen and end up going the wrong way. My sense of direction in County Clare got really topsy turvy. I did not want to follow the directions because my feeble turned around brain was just sure we turning north when we were, in fact, turning south. Sheesh!
But we arrived early evening to an absolutely quintessential Irish country home: sheep, cows, a horse and her foal, a dog and the huge back bay window overlooking a beautiful garden, a pasture, a lough, and an old abbey ruins.
Joan greeted us, showed us our room and the room we would have the next night when the Mikes arrived and told us a bit about Ennis. She mentioned the "store down the road" which turned out to be a Costcutter petrol station and it did have quite a nice store. After a stop for cheese (still had crackers and bread), we took a wee drive down the road from the BnB toward the Shannon River. It was Wednesday night and there was some type of ado at the village church, loads of cars and people meandering between the church and the pub. We drove until we could see the Shannon with, of course, lovely fields, green, sheep and cows. There was some sort of industrial plant just a bit further down the road. So it was back to Lakeside and cheese and crackers for us tonight.
While I was downstairs enjoying the bay window view, an English couple from Southampton came in. We chatted a while. They had come through Moneygall, the town that Present Obama will visit. They said there were American flags everywhere and some people had painted their houses red, white, and blue, others with the Ireland flag. They also had a funny GPS story of the day where they were led to a field and told to turn right.
A much easier day and a splendid place to spend a few days.
This has been a marvelous time with my dear friend, Karen. I know we are both ready to see our Mikes, but this trip together has been a treasured time. To spend 10 days 24/7 with someone who puts up with all my "stuff" is such a blessing of friendship.
18 May
Traveling toward Shannon Airport
Rising refreshed, we were glad to have yesterday behind us. Although this morning, I could appreciate the beautiful countryside and seaside we had seen yesterday. The frustration and fatigue of the long travel had dimmed and the scenic journey was at least equal in my mind. I am not sure Karen felt that way yet.
Breakfast was served at 9:10, we certainly wanted to be spot-on for that! And it was lovely. Marian was a most gracious hostess, asked us about our evening and wished us well on our journey.
I still find the narrow streets and traffic daunting as we try to find our way through Kenmare and toward Killarney. I am excited to go through Killarney even though I know we won't spend much, if any, time there. We ended up taking a different route to Killarney, probably because I wasn't listening to my navigator Karen. But we arrived in good shape through beautiful lush greens with flowers blooming all around. I saw the turn to Muckross House and went to check that out. So we actually saw a bit of Killarney National Forest and parked and walked up to Muckross House in the blustery wind. There were lads with horse drawn carriages taking people around the lake. One offered us a ride. I said, "Oh, it's too cold." he called warmly to Karen, "I have a blanket to wrap you and keep you warm." She just laughed, he was quite charming.
Spent a while at Muckross House grounds garden - wow, beautiful does not begin to describe the well groomed, lushly growing flora everywhere. Azaleas were amazing - giants! We did not take time to tour the house, although it was obviously splendid.
The next stop was for lunch in Adare in County Limerick, the 2010 "Tidy Town" winner. It is truly charming. We spent a while shopping in the cold wind and rain - yet again, then had a quick lunch at the Dove Cot restaurant in the Adare Heritage Center tourist building. Very good quiche and a great scone!
The countryside continues to be charming, stunning, wonderful, amazing greens with sheep sheep sheep, cows, horses and pubs next to every church (sometimes even attached to the church).
The priest/rector at the Church of Ireland in Adare chatted with us quite a while and then gave us directions - exact ones on how to get to Ennis without going through the industrial town of Limerick. Saved us at least 30 minutes and a whole lot of STRESS. He smiled when we thanked him and said, " Oh, you don't want to go through Limerick, it's CRAZY" as he waved his hand in the air. We have been adopted and tutored by many an Irishman or woman - so very friendly and accommodating. The Irish seem to be one of the most genuinely friendly folk on our planet. When they hear our American accent - which is after one or two, at most, words - they become instant ambassadors.
Now on we go Ennis to find our BnB which is out in the country, Lakeside Country Lodge.
The roads are narrow and crazy unless you are on a motorway. Speed limits appear to be somewhat less than a guideline or suggestion, maybe just a formality? NO ONE pays the slightest attention, driving way faster or very slowly - it's always a road adventure.
We successfully avoided Limerick and took the tunnel under the Shannon and we were on the road to Galway, although we will stop well before Galway (sadly). Taking note of the exit for the Shannon airport, we knew about where we had to go to pick up our hubbies tomorrow.
Karen had the written step-by-step directions to Lakeside which is a good thing! She is great at navigating, she keeps me out of trouble. Of course, every now and then I don't listen and end up going the wrong way. My sense of direction in County Clare got really topsy turvy. I did not want to follow the directions because my feeble turned around brain was just sure we turning north when we were, in fact, turning south. Sheesh!
But we arrived early evening to an absolutely quintessential Irish country home: sheep, cows, a horse and her foal, a dog and the huge back bay window overlooking a beautiful garden, a pasture, a lough, and an old abbey ruins.
Joan greeted us, showed us our room and the room we would have the next night when the Mikes arrived and told us a bit about Ennis. She mentioned the "store down the road" which turned out to be a Costcutter petrol station and it did have quite a nice store. After a stop for cheese (still had crackers and bread), we took a wee drive down the road from the BnB toward the Shannon River. It was Wednesday night and there was some type of ado at the village church, loads of cars and people meandering between the church and the pub. We drove until we could see the Shannon with, of course, lovely fields, green, sheep and cows. There was some sort of industrial plant just a bit further down the road. So it was back to Lakeside and cheese and crackers for us tonight.
While I was downstairs enjoying the bay window view, an English couple from Southampton came in. We chatted a while. They had come through Moneygall, the town that Present Obama will visit. They said there were American flags everywhere and some people had painted their houses red, white, and blue, others with the Ireland flag. They also had a funny GPS story of the day where they were led to a field and told to turn right.
A much easier day and a splendid place to spend a few days.
This has been a marvelous time with my dear friend, Karen. I know we are both ready to see our Mikes, but this trip together has been a treasured time. To spend 10 days 24/7 with someone who puts up with all my "stuff" is such a blessing of friendship.
Friday, May 27, 2011
Farrenwick to Kenmare, too much
VII BLOG Toto Travels
17 May
Big trip - 10 hours - too much
Leaving Farrenwick at 8:30, we started on our very ambitious travel day.
From Cahir we got on the M8 to go to Cobh via Cork and then on to Kinsale for lunch and the scenic route to Kenmare.
Stop in Fermoy for petrol at a fancy Costcutter and stocked up on snacks- yikes, and on to Cobh. We had computer printed directions which were brilliant and took us right into the lovely, lovely harbour city of Cobh. There was a huge Italian cruise ship in harbour with LOTS of people jamming the streets. Karen and I hit the Tourist info (of course) and the Heritage Center including the sculpture of Annie Moore, the first immigrant on Ellis Island.
Lunch and a long day trip ahead called us reluctantly out of Cobh to Kinsale, we found the R600, skirting Cork City, and arrived Kinsale.
No time for the Star Fort in Kinsale. We parked, went to the TI where a very helpful (and VERY businesslike) lady charted our scenic trip into Kenmare.
Lunch was at legendary Fishy Fishy. It was, indeed, expensive but certainly lived up to the name. The most amazing fish n chips I have ever eaten.
After a short unplanned diversion-I took the wrong turn, we left Kinsale and stayed on R600 to Ballinspittle, Timoleague, and to Clonakilty (picked up N71) and on to other charming towns of Leap, Ballydehob, Skibbereen, and Bantry. At Bantry I was so tired, achy and tired of driving. We stopped in a store for a bit of cheese to go with the Fishy Fishy brown bread (and for toilets of course) and were directed "back down to town square-you can't miss it" - yeah, right.
At this point I was pretty crabby and after a couple times around the town, I stopped at the library in desperation. It was a paltry library, rather sad actually. But we had our break and I felt ready to go again.
Just past Bantry, the scenery got even more beautiful, if possible. We stopped a few places for photo opps. Off to Glengarriff where we turned off N71 to travel part of the Beara Peninsula to Adrigole (stop at Peg's) and over Healy pass. It was absolutely stunning, how many superlative words can I find to describe scenery in Ireland? Also it was a narrow road, hairpin turns, and cliffs, windy and cold out as well. Sheep were everpresent, grazing their way around. Karen was about at the end of her rope at this point. It was after 6:00 pm and we had been on the road since 8:30 am.
I stopped a few times to take photos and Karen did not push me down the mountain, thankfully. By the time we wound our way into Kenmare about 7:00 pm, we neither one could think. Following directions on a map was difficult! But we finally found Rockcrest BnB and arrived exhausted and bedraggled. Our hosts, Marian and David O'Dwyer greeted us.
Marian showed us to our room at the end of the hall and up a few stairs, while David brought our last bag in for us. Marian was all business, "What time do you want breakfast?" she asked with pen and pad in hand.
"About 8:45 or 9:00," we proposed.
"9:10 is the only time left, you ARE the last ones on." She stated.
"Right, 9:10 is good, thanks." it was difficult to keep a straight face.
Karen was completely done in and I briefly thought about walking into town (just around the corner) for a Guinness, but took a few steps out the door, considered the sprinkling showers and how tired I was - took a few photos and went back to the room. We had cheese and "Fishy Fishy" brown bread in the room and called it a night.
17 May
Big trip - 10 hours - too much
Leaving Farrenwick at 8:30, we started on our very ambitious travel day.
From Cahir we got on the M8 to go to Cobh via Cork and then on to Kinsale for lunch and the scenic route to Kenmare.
Stop in Fermoy for petrol at a fancy Costcutter and stocked up on snacks- yikes, and on to Cobh. We had computer printed directions which were brilliant and took us right into the lovely, lovely harbour city of Cobh. There was a huge Italian cruise ship in harbour with LOTS of people jamming the streets. Karen and I hit the Tourist info (of course) and the Heritage Center including the sculpture of Annie Moore, the first immigrant on Ellis Island.
Lunch and a long day trip ahead called us reluctantly out of Cobh to Kinsale, we found the R600, skirting Cork City, and arrived Kinsale.
No time for the Star Fort in Kinsale. We parked, went to the TI where a very helpful (and VERY businesslike) lady charted our scenic trip into Kenmare.
Lunch was at legendary Fishy Fishy. It was, indeed, expensive but certainly lived up to the name. The most amazing fish n chips I have ever eaten.
After a short unplanned diversion-I took the wrong turn, we left Kinsale and stayed on R600 to Ballinspittle, Timoleague, and to Clonakilty (picked up N71) and on to other charming towns of Leap, Ballydehob, Skibbereen, and Bantry. At Bantry I was so tired, achy and tired of driving. We stopped in a store for a bit of cheese to go with the Fishy Fishy brown bread (and for toilets of course) and were directed "back down to town square-you can't miss it" - yeah, right.
At this point I was pretty crabby and after a couple times around the town, I stopped at the library in desperation. It was a paltry library, rather sad actually. But we had our break and I felt ready to go again.
Just past Bantry, the scenery got even more beautiful, if possible. We stopped a few places for photo opps. Off to Glengarriff where we turned off N71 to travel part of the Beara Peninsula to Adrigole (stop at Peg's) and over Healy pass. It was absolutely stunning, how many superlative words can I find to describe scenery in Ireland? Also it was a narrow road, hairpin turns, and cliffs, windy and cold out as well. Sheep were everpresent, grazing their way around. Karen was about at the end of her rope at this point. It was after 6:00 pm and we had been on the road since 8:30 am.
I stopped a few times to take photos and Karen did not push me down the mountain, thankfully. By the time we wound our way into Kenmare about 7:00 pm, we neither one could think. Following directions on a map was difficult! But we finally found Rockcrest BnB and arrived exhausted and bedraggled. Our hosts, Marian and David O'Dwyer greeted us.
Marian showed us to our room at the end of the hall and up a few stairs, while David brought our last bag in for us. Marian was all business, "What time do you want breakfast?" she asked with pen and pad in hand.
"About 8:45 or 9:00," we proposed.
"9:10 is the only time left, you ARE the last ones on." She stated.
"Right, 9:10 is good, thanks." it was difficult to keep a straight face.
Karen was completely done in and I briefly thought about walking into town (just around the corner) for a Guinness, but took a few steps out the door, considered the sprinkling showers and how tired I was - took a few photos and went back to the room. We had cheese and "Fishy Fishy" brown bread in the room and called it a night.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Last of County Tipperary
VI Blog Toto Travels
16 May - Monday
Another delicious breakfast and delightful chat with Kay and Denis started our day. Their grandson Aiden Denis was with them this morning and we enjoyed meeting the adorable 2 year old.
We planned sightseeing around County Tipperary, so Denis helped plan our itinerary for us.
Our plan was to go through Cashel and turn up Road R660 to go see Holycross Abbey and Church. We knew that The Rock of Cashel was closed in preparation for the Queen E II visit. A lovely start to the day, we decided to stop at the TI in Cashel and look around a little. Always enjoy dawdling and shopping at the Tourist Information centers in the British Isles. We saw a Garda and asked him directions. He was very friendly and helpful, asked us where we were from. He was walking the same way we were going, so we chatted about all the Garda in town and the upcoming visit of the Q of England. Karen said, "Well, she's not your YOUR Queen, so you don't have to worry."
"No! She is certainly not!" he rather chortled. We had to smile, he was great fun to chat with.
After spending too much time shopping in the TI in Cashel - it truly had very nice merchandise, we set off for Holycross Abbey and Church. Spectacular views of Rock of Cashel from beyond the town of Cashel.
The road to Holycross was truly beautiful - picturesque. Holycross Church and Abbey was a mixture of abbey ruins and restored church. Kay told us that it was a very popular and expensive place (if you were not a parishioner) to have a wedding. When we went into the Abbey Store, there was this very old lady who could barely talk, could not catch her breath and had significant dysphonia. She got up to get us some information and could barely walk, she was very nice though. I suppose she works out of need or company, but Karen and I both hurt for her.
Now after noon, we drove back through Cashel and on to Cahir for lunch and a look at Cahir Castle. Lunch is now the order of business. The Lazy Bean near the Galtee Inn looked great for lunch and it was a hopping place with wonderful looking desserts. As it turned out, Cahir Castle was just around the corner. We popped into the TI office at the castle and we were helped by the nicest and most wonderful lady, Bernie. She gave us all kinds of information, looked up a route for us to go to Cobh and Kinsale tomorrow and printed instructions. She was absolutely brilliant!
Denis had pretty much insisted we go to Cahir Castle and we found it to be a very informative and enjoyable castle to tour. We climbed as many steps as we could find and generally had a great time meandering through the castle.
It was 3:00 pm before we set off for our last two destinations - The Vee drive and Lismore. Just outside Cahir Castle was the road sign for "The Vee." Up, up and away we go. R668 from Cashel takes us up the Knockmealdown Mountains to The Vee which connects County Tipperary and County Waterford. From lush vegetation we climb to somewhat more sparse and definitely rougher country. The Vee is a narrow canyon filled with beautiful shrubs of varying colors that spreads out in a V to lower elevation. Absolutely spectacular. Near the top we had a sheep roadblock, complete with lambs, that was just pure fun. A very narrow road, shepherds' huts near the top, we wound our way down to Lismore which is a lovely village nestled next to a small river.
We thought we could see Lismore castle, but found out it is private and the grounds were closed. Supposedly the gardens closed at 4:00 (16:00), but we were there about 5 or 10 of 4:00 and it was locked tight. In retrospect, after grumbling about it, we probably would not have paid €8 just for the gardens. Lovely churches and old stone buildings winding through narrow streets. We enjoyed the time although we were not able to "tour" any place. Sometimes just being in a place is enough.
We took the low road back to Clonmel. Once over the high road was enough.
Very hungry, we could not find a place that suited us in Clonmel, so stopped at a pub on N24 near Farrenwick turnoff R687. There is a first time for everything, we did not feel welcome there, but we were so hungry we stayed anyway. Cream of mushroom soup was soup de jour. Who knew that consisted of mushrooms in broth with a dollop of cream thrown on. Actually it was not bad, certainly not as bad as it looked! The cheese sandwich was grated cheddar thrown on bread - and it promptly fell off the bread every time I took a bite. The Guinness, however, did NOT disappoint.
Our last night at Farrenwick, rather sad, we have adopted Kay and Denis as our family.
16 May - Monday
Another delicious breakfast and delightful chat with Kay and Denis started our day. Their grandson Aiden Denis was with them this morning and we enjoyed meeting the adorable 2 year old.
We planned sightseeing around County Tipperary, so Denis helped plan our itinerary for us.
Our plan was to go through Cashel and turn up Road R660 to go see Holycross Abbey and Church. We knew that The Rock of Cashel was closed in preparation for the Queen E II visit. A lovely start to the day, we decided to stop at the TI in Cashel and look around a little. Always enjoy dawdling and shopping at the Tourist Information centers in the British Isles. We saw a Garda and asked him directions. He was very friendly and helpful, asked us where we were from. He was walking the same way we were going, so we chatted about all the Garda in town and the upcoming visit of the Q of England. Karen said, "Well, she's not your YOUR Queen, so you don't have to worry."
"No! She is certainly not!" he rather chortled. We had to smile, he was great fun to chat with.
After spending too much time shopping in the TI in Cashel - it truly had very nice merchandise, we set off for Holycross Abbey and Church. Spectacular views of Rock of Cashel from beyond the town of Cashel.
The road to Holycross was truly beautiful - picturesque. Holycross Church and Abbey was a mixture of abbey ruins and restored church. Kay told us that it was a very popular and expensive place (if you were not a parishioner) to have a wedding. When we went into the Abbey Store, there was this very old lady who could barely talk, could not catch her breath and had significant dysphonia. She got up to get us some information and could barely walk, she was very nice though. I suppose she works out of need or company, but Karen and I both hurt for her.
Now after noon, we drove back through Cashel and on to Cahir for lunch and a look at Cahir Castle. Lunch is now the order of business. The Lazy Bean near the Galtee Inn looked great for lunch and it was a hopping place with wonderful looking desserts. As it turned out, Cahir Castle was just around the corner. We popped into the TI office at the castle and we were helped by the nicest and most wonderful lady, Bernie. She gave us all kinds of information, looked up a route for us to go to Cobh and Kinsale tomorrow and printed instructions. She was absolutely brilliant!
Denis had pretty much insisted we go to Cahir Castle and we found it to be a very informative and enjoyable castle to tour. We climbed as many steps as we could find and generally had a great time meandering through the castle.
It was 3:00 pm before we set off for our last two destinations - The Vee drive and Lismore. Just outside Cahir Castle was the road sign for "The Vee." Up, up and away we go. R668 from Cashel takes us up the Knockmealdown Mountains to The Vee which connects County Tipperary and County Waterford. From lush vegetation we climb to somewhat more sparse and definitely rougher country. The Vee is a narrow canyon filled with beautiful shrubs of varying colors that spreads out in a V to lower elevation. Absolutely spectacular. Near the top we had a sheep roadblock, complete with lambs, that was just pure fun. A very narrow road, shepherds' huts near the top, we wound our way down to Lismore which is a lovely village nestled next to a small river.
We thought we could see Lismore castle, but found out it is private and the grounds were closed. Supposedly the gardens closed at 4:00 (16:00), but we were there about 5 or 10 of 4:00 and it was locked tight. In retrospect, after grumbling about it, we probably would not have paid €8 just for the gardens. Lovely churches and old stone buildings winding through narrow streets. We enjoyed the time although we were not able to "tour" any place. Sometimes just being in a place is enough.
We took the low road back to Clonmel. Once over the high road was enough.
Very hungry, we could not find a place that suited us in Clonmel, so stopped at a pub on N24 near Farrenwick turnoff R687. There is a first time for everything, we did not feel welcome there, but we were so hungry we stayed anyway. Cream of mushroom soup was soup de jour. Who knew that consisted of mushrooms in broth with a dollop of cream thrown on. Actually it was not bad, certainly not as bad as it looked! The cheese sandwich was grated cheddar thrown on bread - and it promptly fell off the bread every time I took a bite. The Guinness, however, did NOT disappoint.
Our last night at Farrenwick, rather sad, we have adopted Kay and Denis as our family.
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Dunbrody Famine Ship and Dungarvan
V BLOG Toto Travels
15 May, Sunday
A windy, cloudy day for our trip to the Dunbrody Famine Ship in New Ross.
Kay fixed a great breakfast for us. We are not fans of the Full Irish Breakfast, so Kay did not have to cook for us on Sunday morning. Denis remarked, "I can be a good breakfast helper this morning, no cooking!" There were about 8 kinds of cereals available, fruit, brown multi-grain bread, scones, yogurt, and toast. The best were the jams - two made by Kay - gooseberry and ginger rhubarb. Another morning with scones and jam!
Denis told us how to get to New Ross - right along N24 through Clonmel, Carrick-on -Suir bypassing the north side of Waterford, getting on N25 to go to New Ross.
After attending mass on Saturday night, Denis and Kay were off for a family day with their 3 children and 5 grandchildren - Kay was very excited!
After the change of plans for Karen, there was some work for her to do re-planning their trip. Denis had set us up on their laptop, but the Internet was glitchy and for some reason we could neither one check email. So after we were on our way, we decided to find a place in Clonmel with Internet access. We knew on a Sunday morning, that might be tricky.
Stopping at a hotel, we asked about a cuppa and Internet access. The man said, "Oh, sure we don't have Internet, you'll have to go to McDonald's."
*Seriously?*
"It'll be easier to walk than drive, just right out the door, down 2 blocks....." he followed us out the door to point us in the right direction.
And we were directed to the Golden Arches in Clonmel, County Tipperary, Ireland - eegad. There we ordered drinks asked about Internet and were given a card with a passcode for 30 minutes of internet usage.
Karen got car hire squared away and began to plan for motoring around the country instead of spending most of their time in Dublin.
Then we were off for New Ross through beautiful countryside.
Unfortunately the visitor center in New Ross was closed for remodeling, so only the ship itself was open for tour. However that tour aboard the Dunbrody replica was a somber experience. A cargo ship converted for passengers due to the mass exodus caused by the potato famine and economic disaster in Ireland, the steerage area was terrible. To consider a few hundred people in a small area below deck for up to 60 days is too awful to imagine. Bunks were 6' x 6' and were measured to hold 4 adults plus any children that could manage to fit. The lower bunk often had product from the upper bunk spill down. Ugh! To stop and reflect on such a journey and the choice that these starving people made to pay to take such passage to the USA - wow. My great grandparents, Martin Lucas and Margaret Beard came on some such ship from Ireland (probably at different times) to the United States. My grandmother told me that they were both orphans and did not know each other until they both came to the United States. I don't know how they ended up in Hallowell, Kansas.
Not much was open on Sunday, so we decided to try Waterford for lunch. Good decision. We found The Granville Hotel on the main street by the harbor that had a carvery on Sunday. It is a bit like a buffet, but you choose your meat and then any salad (now that is another big difference - the concept of "salad" in Ireland can be way different) or any vegetables and bread are included. It was very good and interesting to watch the variety of people. There were casual families all the way to formally dressed folks.
After lunch we drove around a little and happened by the Waterford Crystal factory and showroom and - OH DEAR- decided to skip it. There were tour buses and it was late afternoon by this time. Our Mothers neither one approved, I am sure.
Taking a slightly scenic route home - there don't appear to be ANY routes that are NOT scenic - we drove to the lovely harbor village of Dungarvan, then through the Comeragh Mountains. We missed a turn and nearly had a way too up-close-and-personal experience with a lorry. But we made it back to Road 687 and Farrenwick safe and sound. We managed the lock on the door to Farrenwick and were safe inside.
Kay and Denis arrived home shortly after we arrived at Farrenwick and told us they lived in Dungarvan for a few years, we all agreed it is LOVELY.
15 May, Sunday
A windy, cloudy day for our trip to the Dunbrody Famine Ship in New Ross.
Kay fixed a great breakfast for us. We are not fans of the Full Irish Breakfast, so Kay did not have to cook for us on Sunday morning. Denis remarked, "I can be a good breakfast helper this morning, no cooking!" There were about 8 kinds of cereals available, fruit, brown multi-grain bread, scones, yogurt, and toast. The best were the jams - two made by Kay - gooseberry and ginger rhubarb. Another morning with scones and jam!
Denis told us how to get to New Ross - right along N24 through Clonmel, Carrick-on -Suir bypassing the north side of Waterford, getting on N25 to go to New Ross.
After attending mass on Saturday night, Denis and Kay were off for a family day with their 3 children and 5 grandchildren - Kay was very excited!
After the change of plans for Karen, there was some work for her to do re-planning their trip. Denis had set us up on their laptop, but the Internet was glitchy and for some reason we could neither one check email. So after we were on our way, we decided to find a place in Clonmel with Internet access. We knew on a Sunday morning, that might be tricky.
Stopping at a hotel, we asked about a cuppa and Internet access. The man said, "Oh, sure we don't have Internet, you'll have to go to McDonald's."
*Seriously?*
"It'll be easier to walk than drive, just right out the door, down 2 blocks....." he followed us out the door to point us in the right direction.
And we were directed to the Golden Arches in Clonmel, County Tipperary, Ireland - eegad. There we ordered drinks asked about Internet and were given a card with a passcode for 30 minutes of internet usage.
Karen got car hire squared away and began to plan for motoring around the country instead of spending most of their time in Dublin.
Then we were off for New Ross through beautiful countryside.
Unfortunately the visitor center in New Ross was closed for remodeling, so only the ship itself was open for tour. However that tour aboard the Dunbrody replica was a somber experience. A cargo ship converted for passengers due to the mass exodus caused by the potato famine and economic disaster in Ireland, the steerage area was terrible. To consider a few hundred people in a small area below deck for up to 60 days is too awful to imagine. Bunks were 6' x 6' and were measured to hold 4 adults plus any children that could manage to fit. The lower bunk often had product from the upper bunk spill down. Ugh! To stop and reflect on such a journey and the choice that these starving people made to pay to take such passage to the USA - wow. My great grandparents, Martin Lucas and Margaret Beard came on some such ship from Ireland (probably at different times) to the United States. My grandmother told me that they were both orphans and did not know each other until they both came to the United States. I don't know how they ended up in Hallowell, Kansas.
Not much was open on Sunday, so we decided to try Waterford for lunch. Good decision. We found The Granville Hotel on the main street by the harbor that had a carvery on Sunday. It is a bit like a buffet, but you choose your meat and then any salad (now that is another big difference - the concept of "salad" in Ireland can be way different) or any vegetables and bread are included. It was very good and interesting to watch the variety of people. There were casual families all the way to formally dressed folks.
After lunch we drove around a little and happened by the Waterford Crystal factory and showroom and - OH DEAR- decided to skip it. There were tour buses and it was late afternoon by this time. Our Mothers neither one approved, I am sure.
Taking a slightly scenic route home - there don't appear to be ANY routes that are NOT scenic - we drove to the lovely harbor village of Dungarvan, then through the Comeragh Mountains. We missed a turn and nearly had a way too up-close-and-personal experience with a lorry. But we made it back to Road 687 and Farrenwick safe and sound. We managed the lock on the door to Farrenwick and were safe inside.
Kay and Denis arrived home shortly after we arrived at Farrenwick and told us they lived in Dungarvan for a few years, we all agreed it is LOVELY.
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
Farrenwick, County Tipperary
IV Blog Toto Travels
County Tipperary and Farrenwick
14 May - After picking up our car at Dublin airport, we head toward our first destination: Farrenwick Guest House near Clonmel, County Tipperary. I had planned to take the long way around through Wicklow, but decided a long drive our first day in the car was not a good idea an we would go pretty much directly to Farrenwick and settle in. VERY good decision as it turns out.
After a stop for coffee (diet Coke for Karen) and scones in the village of Abbeyleix
we continued on toward Farrenwick. We took a slightly wrong turn, but it was easy to come down to the road between Clonmel and Cahir and go back up R687 to Farrenwick.
We arrived around 1:00 pm and got all checked in at Farrenwick BnB on R687 near Clomnel, County Tipperary, just south of Poulnamucky which is south of New Inn - not far from The Rock of Cashel. Denis, our host, greeted us as he was doing spring planting in a stunningly beautiful yard.
Kay, our hostess, ushered us in and brought us tea and scones and chatted with us in the sitting room. She chatted about the Queen of England's visit and was quite philosophical about it. She fretted about her safety and also told us that their road would be closed Thursday and Friday. They had been told to get everything they needed because they would not be able to leave while the road was closed. "I'll be praying for the Queen, I want her to come and go safely." Then she added, "It is time for healing. We have a lovely country, but people will hear about the few crazy people."
Karen and I asked about the nearest laundry and Kay said as we were their only guests for the night, she would be glad to do our laundry. What a wonderful favor!
Denis recommended a trip to see the Rock of Cashel, so we decided to check that off our list. Cashel is another fairly small village, although navigating the streets is still a challenge.
It was cold and windy with intermittent rain on the "Rock" which does indeed sit above the village of Cashel. We found the car park, and walked around up the hill to the entrance, noting several Garda in the area. A sign informed us that Cashel would be closed from Monday 16 May through Friday 20 May because the Queen of England was visiting. We were so glad we had decided to come on Saturday!
Very impressive ruins and history. Spectacular view of the town, the plains of Tipperary, farmland, pasture, and other ruins.
The rain kept us from walking around Cashel - well mostly the WIND and he rain!
So it was back to Cahir to find a place to eat, not an easy task it seems. Americans take the multiple restaurants and long open hours for granted. The lady at Mary Condon Pub and Funeral Directors (yep that is what the sign said) recommended The Galtee Inn down the street. Yum! Initially we were not sure about the place, the pub man was dry and just nodded to a table, but it turned out to be a delicious dinner.
This is great horse country and there was a wonderful painting of a horse and jockey jumping a fence titled Beer or Salmon. I commented to the bar man about the marvelous painting. His comment, " That's Beer or Salmon " (as if that should absolutely explain all). Then he took pity on us, "He's a beautiful horse, very famous."
Karen asked if he was still alive.
"Oh yeh retired he did umm about 6 years ago - out to stud now."
The food was wonderful - bit of a surprise. I had a broccoli cheese mix in a pastry that was the best meal so far. Delicious and the Guinness that accompanied the meal topped it off.
Denis and Kay were waiting for us on our return and wanted to know about our afternoon. They smiled when we told them where we ate, Denis told us it was named for the Galtee Mountains and showed us the mountains from their window.
Avery nice first day in the lovely countryside of Ireland.
County Tipperary and Farrenwick
14 May - After picking up our car at Dublin airport, we head toward our first destination: Farrenwick Guest House near Clonmel, County Tipperary. I had planned to take the long way around through Wicklow, but decided a long drive our first day in the car was not a good idea an we would go pretty much directly to Farrenwick and settle in. VERY good decision as it turns out.
After a stop for coffee (diet Coke for Karen) and scones in the village of Abbeyleix
we continued on toward Farrenwick. We took a slightly wrong turn, but it was easy to come down to the road between Clonmel and Cahir and go back up R687 to Farrenwick.
We arrived around 1:00 pm and got all checked in at Farrenwick BnB on R687 near Clomnel, County Tipperary, just south of Poulnamucky which is south of New Inn - not far from The Rock of Cashel. Denis, our host, greeted us as he was doing spring planting in a stunningly beautiful yard.
Kay, our hostess, ushered us in and brought us tea and scones and chatted with us in the sitting room. She chatted about the Queen of England's visit and was quite philosophical about it. She fretted about her safety and also told us that their road would be closed Thursday and Friday. They had been told to get everything they needed because they would not be able to leave while the road was closed. "I'll be praying for the Queen, I want her to come and go safely." Then she added, "It is time for healing. We have a lovely country, but people will hear about the few crazy people."
Karen and I asked about the nearest laundry and Kay said as we were their only guests for the night, she would be glad to do our laundry. What a wonderful favor!
Denis recommended a trip to see the Rock of Cashel, so we decided to check that off our list. Cashel is another fairly small village, although navigating the streets is still a challenge.
It was cold and windy with intermittent rain on the "Rock" which does indeed sit above the village of Cashel. We found the car park, and walked around up the hill to the entrance, noting several Garda in the area. A sign informed us that Cashel would be closed from Monday 16 May through Friday 20 May because the Queen of England was visiting. We were so glad we had decided to come on Saturday!
Very impressive ruins and history. Spectacular view of the town, the plains of Tipperary, farmland, pasture, and other ruins.
The rain kept us from walking around Cashel - well mostly the WIND and he rain!
So it was back to Cahir to find a place to eat, not an easy task it seems. Americans take the multiple restaurants and long open hours for granted. The lady at Mary Condon Pub and Funeral Directors (yep that is what the sign said) recommended The Galtee Inn down the street. Yum! Initially we were not sure about the place, the pub man was dry and just nodded to a table, but it turned out to be a delicious dinner.
This is great horse country and there was a wonderful painting of a horse and jockey jumping a fence titled Beer or Salmon. I commented to the bar man about the marvelous painting. His comment, " That's Beer or Salmon " (as if that should absolutely explain all). Then he took pity on us, "He's a beautiful horse, very famous."
Karen asked if he was still alive.
"Oh yeh retired he did umm about 6 years ago - out to stud now."
The food was wonderful - bit of a surprise. I had a broccoli cheese mix in a pastry that was the best meal so far. Delicious and the Guinness that accompanied the meal topped it off.
Denis and Kay were waiting for us on our return and wanted to know about our afternoon. They smiled when we told them where we ate, Denis told us it was named for the Galtee Mountains and showed us the mountains from their window.
Avery nice first day in the lovely countryside of Ireland.
Dublin
III BLOG Toto Travels
Dublin
A very lazy morning in Dublin was so welcome and necessary. We both slept until almost 9:00! Then we organized our "stuff" and didn't leave the room until a bit after 11:00. Still full from pizza last night at 9:00 pm, we didn't eat breakfast. First order of business was obtaining Euros. Walking down from Bewleys to the ATM, we then headed to a DART station, tried unsuccessfully to obtain DART tickets, and eventually ended up walking to City Center in a light rain and drizzle for most of the way. Got our exercise for the day!
The Tourist Information (TI) office is in an old church building, sprawling and most compelling. The TI man was very excited to note we were Americans. "Oh, your President Obama is coming to visit, is that why you are here?"
"NO! " We exclaimed. He looked horrified, "You don't like Obama?"
"Oh no, he is fine. We just don't want to be here with all the security."
He looked slightly mollified.
After a sightsee through the TI, we decided it was time to eat. We went across the street to a beautiful looking pub called O'Neals. As we were debating between the two food lines, a man came up behind us - acting a bit impatient and all business. Karen turned to him and asked which line was to order fish and chips. His entire demeanor changed. He smiled and relaxed and was suddenly a wonderful, helpful ambassador of Ireland. It was pretty funny and very appreciated. (We think he was thinking, "Ahh, tourist money!")
We ordered fish and chips - it was pretty bad - greasy through and through. Oh well, the atmosphere was great.
After another run through the tourist shop, we took a hop-on - hop-off tour of Dublin. It was cold and windy and a good time to be on the bus under the roof. We were taking notes on what to visit when we got back to Dublin next week - little did we know!
For dinner, we decided to take the DART to Howth, a harbor town on the North side of Dublin. Through a driving rain, we arrived after about a 15 minute dash with slacks soaked from mid-calf down at the Tara DART station. Rode out to Howth with two lovely and helpful Irish ladies who were just returning from a visit to New York!
They recommended Aqua Restaurant but warned us it was expensive. It is all the way to the end of the row of markets and restaurants in a sleepy little town that has obviously been affected by the bad economy.
Aqua was expensive even for the early bird special, but very good with a lovely view of the bay.
After freezing in the wind trying to walk along the bay, we gave it up and took DART back to Sandymount Station, which is less than a five minute walk to Bewleys.
Karen and I both decided with such close access to DART, we would book rooms for next week with the Mikes at Bewleys - Karen and Mike for 4 nights and Mike and I for 2 nights.
And off to the room, cheers from some kind of sporting match could be heard - probably hurling or football (soccer to us Yanks)
Saturday morning it was up and to the airport to hire our car. Settled the account at Bewleys and the discovered that: the Queen was coming, followed by President Obama and security in Dublin would be like airport security, THEN there was some huge European football finals between Wales and Scotland AND a hurling event. Dublin would be a crowded mess for the next two weeks, rooms going for double to quadruple the usual - already expensive - rates. WOW! Big shift in plans afoot now.
Taxi was ready for us and our lady cabby was hilarious about the Queen coming and all the hoopla. My favorite remark, "She's an 85 year old woman for Chrissake, she should be home with her feet up, not cavorting around causing chaos." The Cabbie also gave us some great tips on where to stay somewhat out of Dublin.
Now to Hertz to pick up our car and head out on our extended adventure in rural Ireland. Here I go driving on he opposite side of the road. Our wee car is a Suzuki Alto - an automatic, one less hassle.
We have a few regrets about Dublin. Karen actually has several regrets since they were planning to spend most of their time in Dublin with day trips out. Since we probably won't spend much time back there, we both wish we had done things a bit differently on Friday. Between the additional security, the crowds, and the lack of rooms available, it does not seem like a fun way to spend our limited time in Ireland. Oh well, there is an entire country for us to explore. And I hear the real Ireland is NOT Dublin anyway.
Dublin
A very lazy morning in Dublin was so welcome and necessary. We both slept until almost 9:00! Then we organized our "stuff" and didn't leave the room until a bit after 11:00. Still full from pizza last night at 9:00 pm, we didn't eat breakfast. First order of business was obtaining Euros. Walking down from Bewleys to the ATM, we then headed to a DART station, tried unsuccessfully to obtain DART tickets, and eventually ended up walking to City Center in a light rain and drizzle for most of the way. Got our exercise for the day!
The Tourist Information (TI) office is in an old church building, sprawling and most compelling. The TI man was very excited to note we were Americans. "Oh, your President Obama is coming to visit, is that why you are here?"
"NO! " We exclaimed. He looked horrified, "You don't like Obama?"
"Oh no, he is fine. We just don't want to be here with all the security."
He looked slightly mollified.
After a sightsee through the TI, we decided it was time to eat. We went across the street to a beautiful looking pub called O'Neals. As we were debating between the two food lines, a man came up behind us - acting a bit impatient and all business. Karen turned to him and asked which line was to order fish and chips. His entire demeanor changed. He smiled and relaxed and was suddenly a wonderful, helpful ambassador of Ireland. It was pretty funny and very appreciated. (We think he was thinking, "Ahh, tourist money!")
We ordered fish and chips - it was pretty bad - greasy through and through. Oh well, the atmosphere was great.
After another run through the tourist shop, we took a hop-on - hop-off tour of Dublin. It was cold and windy and a good time to be on the bus under the roof. We were taking notes on what to visit when we got back to Dublin next week - little did we know!
For dinner, we decided to take the DART to Howth, a harbor town on the North side of Dublin. Through a driving rain, we arrived after about a 15 minute dash with slacks soaked from mid-calf down at the Tara DART station. Rode out to Howth with two lovely and helpful Irish ladies who were just returning from a visit to New York!
They recommended Aqua Restaurant but warned us it was expensive. It is all the way to the end of the row of markets and restaurants in a sleepy little town that has obviously been affected by the bad economy.
Aqua was expensive even for the early bird special, but very good with a lovely view of the bay.
After freezing in the wind trying to walk along the bay, we gave it up and took DART back to Sandymount Station, which is less than a five minute walk to Bewleys.
Karen and I both decided with such close access to DART, we would book rooms for next week with the Mikes at Bewleys - Karen and Mike for 4 nights and Mike and I for 2 nights.
And off to the room, cheers from some kind of sporting match could be heard - probably hurling or football (soccer to us Yanks)
Saturday morning it was up and to the airport to hire our car. Settled the account at Bewleys and the discovered that: the Queen was coming, followed by President Obama and security in Dublin would be like airport security, THEN there was some huge European football finals between Wales and Scotland AND a hurling event. Dublin would be a crowded mess for the next two weeks, rooms going for double to quadruple the usual - already expensive - rates. WOW! Big shift in plans afoot now.
Taxi was ready for us and our lady cabby was hilarious about the Queen coming and all the hoopla. My favorite remark, "She's an 85 year old woman for Chrissake, she should be home with her feet up, not cavorting around causing chaos." The Cabbie also gave us some great tips on where to stay somewhat out of Dublin.
Now to Hertz to pick up our car and head out on our extended adventure in rural Ireland. Here I go driving on he opposite side of the road. Our wee car is a Suzuki Alto - an automatic, one less hassle.
We have a few regrets about Dublin. Karen actually has several regrets since they were planning to spend most of their time in Dublin with day trips out. Since we probably won't spend much time back there, we both wish we had done things a bit differently on Friday. Between the additional security, the crowds, and the lack of rooms available, it does not seem like a fun way to spend our limited time in Ireland. Oh well, there is an entire country for us to explore. And I hear the real Ireland is NOT Dublin anyway.
Monday, May 16, 2011
York to Dublin
Train to Holyhead, Wales
York to Manchester Piccadilly to Crewe to Chester to Fflint to Prestatyn to Rhyl to Colwyn Bay ( Bae Colwyn) to Llandudno Junction to Bangor to Rhosneigr to Holyhead, then Irish Ferries to Dublin.
Thursday 12 May, a quiet rail journey from York to Holyhead with pretty scenery and an enjoyable quiet ride. It was neat for me when we left Chester and came through Wales- although we did not even see a sign welcoming us to Wales, ah well, it IS still the United Kingdom. In Wales, most of the signs are in English and Gaelic/Welsh - most interesting. We skirted the north edge of Snowdonia National Park in Wales, mountains visible from the train as we click-clacked through.
Holyhead is a sleepy port town that seems to waken some when the train arrives or ferries come into port. The luggage check lady recommended The Gateway Restaurant, it looked very plain (to put it nicely) but it was great. I had a jacket potato with cheddar cheese, but the Cheddar was local and about the best I have ever eaten, mmmmm. Karen had a scone with cream and jam - wow they were wonderful. The manager - owner maybe? sent us off with carefully wrapped scones complete with jam and clotted cream. This trip may be an unofficial contest of scone consumption, it is certainly starting out that way.
We boarded the Jonathan Swift "swift" ferry to Dublin with no hassle AND checked our luggage - woo hoo. A bit "pitchy" through a cloudy Irish Sea, but not bad. Nice passenger deck with a cinema area for the kiddies, a bar and a snack bar and lots of tables with chairs.
Arriving in Dublin, we took a bus to downtown bus station and had a short uncertainty of how to proceed, a very nice Irishman from Cork (who now lives in Manchester) was most helpful. Corkbuddy helped with bus tips, talked about his County Cork and County Tipperary, educated us a bit about the horse racing in the area. We finally found an information person who told us it was easiest to take a cab to our hotel - Bewleys Ballsbridge. The cabby was funny and helpful. He wanted to know if we were hiring a car. When we told him yes, he said "The Irish hate indecision, just GO!"
Bewleys' room 416 was great - clean and roomy, great bargain for Dublin at € 89.
When we arrived in the room, we could NOT get any of the lights to work AT ALL! We looked all the room, I got the flashlight out and was looking around for help. We were almost ready to go back to the desk when Karen noticed a wee box by the door that said "card" - "What's this?" Karen said. We peered at it a minute and then tried inserting the key card. Glory! It worked- who knew?
A Guiness and pizza topped off the day.
York to Manchester Piccadilly to Crewe to Chester to Fflint to Prestatyn to Rhyl to Colwyn Bay ( Bae Colwyn) to Llandudno Junction to Bangor to Rhosneigr to Holyhead, then Irish Ferries to Dublin.
Thursday 12 May, a quiet rail journey from York to Holyhead with pretty scenery and an enjoyable quiet ride. It was neat for me when we left Chester and came through Wales- although we did not even see a sign welcoming us to Wales, ah well, it IS still the United Kingdom. In Wales, most of the signs are in English and Gaelic/Welsh - most interesting. We skirted the north edge of Snowdonia National Park in Wales, mountains visible from the train as we click-clacked through.
Holyhead is a sleepy port town that seems to waken some when the train arrives or ferries come into port. The luggage check lady recommended The Gateway Restaurant, it looked very plain (to put it nicely) but it was great. I had a jacket potato with cheddar cheese, but the Cheddar was local and about the best I have ever eaten, mmmmm. Karen had a scone with cream and jam - wow they were wonderful. The manager - owner maybe? sent us off with carefully wrapped scones complete with jam and clotted cream. This trip may be an unofficial contest of scone consumption, it is certainly starting out that way.
We boarded the Jonathan Swift "swift" ferry to Dublin with no hassle AND checked our luggage - woo hoo. A bit "pitchy" through a cloudy Irish Sea, but not bad. Nice passenger deck with a cinema area for the kiddies, a bar and a snack bar and lots of tables with chairs.
Arriving in Dublin, we took a bus to downtown bus station and had a short uncertainty of how to proceed, a very nice Irishman from Cork (who now lives in Manchester) was most helpful. Corkbuddy helped with bus tips, talked about his County Cork and County Tipperary, educated us a bit about the horse racing in the area. We finally found an information person who told us it was easiest to take a cab to our hotel - Bewleys Ballsbridge. The cabby was funny and helpful. He wanted to know if we were hiring a car. When we told him yes, he said "The Irish hate indecision, just GO!"
Bewleys' room 416 was great - clean and roomy, great bargain for Dublin at € 89.
When we arrived in the room, we could NOT get any of the lights to work AT ALL! We looked all the room, I got the flashlight out and was looking around for help. We were almost ready to go back to the desk when Karen noticed a wee box by the door that said "card" - "What's this?" Karen said. We peered at it a minute and then tried inserting the key card. Glory! It worked- who knew?
A Guiness and pizza topped off the day.
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Arriving in York
Arrival
My 11:15 am Flight was cancelled from Kansas City to Chicago and American Airlines (Always Awful?) tried to put me on one that left at 8:20 PM, over 2 hours after my Manchester flight left Chicago. A moment of panic, but it got sorted out fairly quickly although I kept wondering if the next flight would be cancelled. But all is well. Now on Flight 54 with Karen on our way to England - left ORD about 45 minutes late, scheduled into Manchester now about 8:15 am, a bit after the 7:45 am schedule.
Sitting next to a delightful lady, Margaret, from High Bentham, Yorkshire Dales area about 25 minutes from Lake Windemere, near where Karen, Kristin, and I stayed eight years ago. Margaret has a daughter and grandchildren in Dayton, Ohio. She had tips on England and the train system and was a good traveling companion.
In Manchester, customs was a bit of a queue, but not bad. The customs agent was a lady. When she asked, "How long will you be in the UK?" I replied, "we will be here about 3 weeks."
She looked up and said, "you said 'we'- is there someone with you?" I nodded toward Karen and the lady said, " Well come on then." We told her our husbands were joining us next week.
"Ohh, girlie trip" she almost giggled at us. "Lovely." "Yes," we said, "best of both worlds."
After she checked our passports, she grinned and said, "Enjoy your girlie time, ladies."
Rail trip to York was uneventful, and Karen and I were heading into full jet lag mode. Arrived in York, short taxi ride across the Ouse River and up Bootham to Queen Annes Road to St. Raphael Guest House. We were greeted by Zoe and given keys to our room. A delightful young lady, she introduced us to baby Ollie - about 4 months old- who was engrossed in a Baby Mozart video.
Our room is The Minister at the top of the stairs, but only 2 flights up. Very nice, very clean room. Smallish bath, but not overly so.
We freshened up a bit, and went in search of LUNCH.
Zoe recommended Concerto Cafe, which was close, had a view of Yorkminister, and was one of her favorites.
Concerto Cafe: A quaint place and very popular. You are asked to wait outside when there are no tables available - we waited about 10 minutes. Our waiter was pleasant enough but had a tongue-in-cheek, sardonic air that was quite amusing. We had sandwiches and ordered sticky toffee pudding to split. "Do you want cream with that? " he asked. "Oh yes," we gushed.
"Any coffee, latte, tea?" he said.
I asserted, "Yes, please a latte with skim milk."
He rolled his eyes, grinned with great irony and raised his eyebrows at me.
"Well, you know, helps make up for the cream." I shrugged ruefully.
He returned with our order, "One sticky toffee pudding with cream and counteracting latte." he informed us dripping with irony.
Lunch was delicious, then we went to Yorkminster - definitely in a jet lag fog now.
Bought tickets to tour Yorkminister after we were told the tickets were good for a full year. What a deal!
There are not words to describe Yorkminister. It is immense, ornate, intricate, amazing.
Part of me is in awe of beauty and intricacy of the Minster. Part of me thinks about the poor and disabled that could be helped by the money spent on a material building. Perhaps misguided, but built for the glory of God, they are beautiful to behold the craftsmanship that went into the building of the Minster. I think God would have been happier for the money to be spent on helping others, but He probably honors the love and skill displayed in the building of such a place of worship.
We walked the streets of York while we waited for Evensong to begin at 5:15. Neither of us were very sure we would survive Evensong without falling asleep. We walked around Newmarket and through The Shambles, a shambling array of buildings that was originally the butcher's area of the city. We had a short lemonade at the York Pub of the Year - "The House of Trembling Madness" - it was very sedate at 4:00 pm on a Tuesday.
Returned to The Minster in time for Evensong. Strange feeling to sit in the special wood box seats in the Quirre - that are marked for church member families for Sunday services.
We were very close to sleep about 3 times during the service, but we both managed to stay awake enough the avoid slumping over and snoring. Yikes! Evensong is a very formal, prescribed order of worship (of course) which I found both uplifting and stuffy depending on the moment in the service.
We grabbed a snack and went to the BnB - and SWEET SLEEP. Victory over jet lag - yes!
Wednesday morning brought a wonderful breakfast of homemade bread, jams, cereals, yogurt and hot "grill" was available as well. The best part was Zoe, baby Ollie and an adorable pup named Milo who stayed behind "the line" of carpeting beyond their kitchen.
Wednesday was spent in York - walking and walking and walking! Left the BnB after a wonderful breakfast, and wandered about most of the day - the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, once one of the largest and wealthiest abbeys in England, York Castle Museum, along part of the wall of the city, back to The Minster to see the crypts and the lower levels, and eventually to The Royal Oak Pub about 5:00. Based on the bar man's recommendation, we sampled a luscious local ale, Old Peculiar. It was a complex dark ale with a hint of chocolate - mmmm, went down nicely and I had to exercise restraint, but knew another would make it a very difficult and tipsy walk to beddybye.
Another quick bite to eat - Yorkshire Rarebit at Betty's - and back to the BnB - tired after a long day of walking.
York is amazing. Ruled by ancient Rome, a statute of Constantine adorns one entrance of Yorkminster, then 9th to 11th Century it was ruled by the Vikings. Next the Normans arrived. Henry VIII used Yorkminster as his northern capitol. The Medieval glass windows are incredible and one of the largest collections of intact Medieval glass.
Reading about the church was interesting: the early Anglican Church defined 3 pillars of the church: Scripture, Reason, and Tradition of the Church while the Medieval Roman Catholic Church was less based on the Bible. Of course the major reason for the split was the dispute between Henry VIII and the Pope, but the Anglican church appears to be steeped in Scripture and has made its way through the split with Rome and through the reformation creating its definite identity.
Now Thursday morning, it is off on the train to catch the ferry to Dublin. The cabbie to the rail station had fun with wild stories - he called them wild too - of sightings of Roman soldiers in chariots under the Minister, and aliens blasting the stained glass windows. Entertaining to say the least!
My 11:15 am Flight was cancelled from Kansas City to Chicago and American Airlines (Always Awful?) tried to put me on one that left at 8:20 PM, over 2 hours after my Manchester flight left Chicago. A moment of panic, but it got sorted out fairly quickly although I kept wondering if the next flight would be cancelled. But all is well. Now on Flight 54 with Karen on our way to England - left ORD about 45 minutes late, scheduled into Manchester now about 8:15 am, a bit after the 7:45 am schedule.
Sitting next to a delightful lady, Margaret, from High Bentham, Yorkshire Dales area about 25 minutes from Lake Windemere, near where Karen, Kristin, and I stayed eight years ago. Margaret has a daughter and grandchildren in Dayton, Ohio. She had tips on England and the train system and was a good traveling companion.
In Manchester, customs was a bit of a queue, but not bad. The customs agent was a lady. When she asked, "How long will you be in the UK?" I replied, "we will be here about 3 weeks."
She looked up and said, "you said 'we'- is there someone with you?" I nodded toward Karen and the lady said, " Well come on then." We told her our husbands were joining us next week.
"Ohh, girlie trip" she almost giggled at us. "Lovely." "Yes," we said, "best of both worlds."
After she checked our passports, she grinned and said, "Enjoy your girlie time, ladies."
Rail trip to York was uneventful, and Karen and I were heading into full jet lag mode. Arrived in York, short taxi ride across the Ouse River and up Bootham to Queen Annes Road to St. Raphael Guest House. We were greeted by Zoe and given keys to our room. A delightful young lady, she introduced us to baby Ollie - about 4 months old- who was engrossed in a Baby Mozart video.
Our room is The Minister at the top of the stairs, but only 2 flights up. Very nice, very clean room. Smallish bath, but not overly so.
We freshened up a bit, and went in search of LUNCH.
Zoe recommended Concerto Cafe, which was close, had a view of Yorkminister, and was one of her favorites.
Concerto Cafe: A quaint place and very popular. You are asked to wait outside when there are no tables available - we waited about 10 minutes. Our waiter was pleasant enough but had a tongue-in-cheek, sardonic air that was quite amusing. We had sandwiches and ordered sticky toffee pudding to split. "Do you want cream with that? " he asked. "Oh yes," we gushed.
"Any coffee, latte, tea?" he said.
I asserted, "Yes, please a latte with skim milk."
He rolled his eyes, grinned with great irony and raised his eyebrows at me.
"Well, you know, helps make up for the cream." I shrugged ruefully.
He returned with our order, "One sticky toffee pudding with cream and counteracting latte." he informed us dripping with irony.
Lunch was delicious, then we went to Yorkminster - definitely in a jet lag fog now.
Bought tickets to tour Yorkminister after we were told the tickets were good for a full year. What a deal!
There are not words to describe Yorkminister. It is immense, ornate, intricate, amazing.
Part of me is in awe of beauty and intricacy of the Minster. Part of me thinks about the poor and disabled that could be helped by the money spent on a material building. Perhaps misguided, but built for the glory of God, they are beautiful to behold the craftsmanship that went into the building of the Minster. I think God would have been happier for the money to be spent on helping others, but He probably honors the love and skill displayed in the building of such a place of worship.
We walked the streets of York while we waited for Evensong to begin at 5:15. Neither of us were very sure we would survive Evensong without falling asleep. We walked around Newmarket and through The Shambles, a shambling array of buildings that was originally the butcher's area of the city. We had a short lemonade at the York Pub of the Year - "The House of Trembling Madness" - it was very sedate at 4:00 pm on a Tuesday.
Returned to The Minster in time for Evensong. Strange feeling to sit in the special wood box seats in the Quirre - that are marked for church member families for Sunday services.
We were very close to sleep about 3 times during the service, but we both managed to stay awake enough the avoid slumping over and snoring. Yikes! Evensong is a very formal, prescribed order of worship (of course) which I found both uplifting and stuffy depending on the moment in the service.
We grabbed a snack and went to the BnB - and SWEET SLEEP. Victory over jet lag - yes!
Wednesday morning brought a wonderful breakfast of homemade bread, jams, cereals, yogurt and hot "grill" was available as well. The best part was Zoe, baby Ollie and an adorable pup named Milo who stayed behind "the line" of carpeting beyond their kitchen.
Wednesday was spent in York - walking and walking and walking! Left the BnB after a wonderful breakfast, and wandered about most of the day - the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, once one of the largest and wealthiest abbeys in England, York Castle Museum, along part of the wall of the city, back to The Minster to see the crypts and the lower levels, and eventually to The Royal Oak Pub about 5:00. Based on the bar man's recommendation, we sampled a luscious local ale, Old Peculiar. It was a complex dark ale with a hint of chocolate - mmmm, went down nicely and I had to exercise restraint, but knew another would make it a very difficult and tipsy walk to beddybye.
Another quick bite to eat - Yorkshire Rarebit at Betty's - and back to the BnB - tired after a long day of walking.
York is amazing. Ruled by ancient Rome, a statute of Constantine adorns one entrance of Yorkminster, then 9th to 11th Century it was ruled by the Vikings. Next the Normans arrived. Henry VIII used Yorkminster as his northern capitol. The Medieval glass windows are incredible and one of the largest collections of intact Medieval glass.
Reading about the church was interesting: the early Anglican Church defined 3 pillars of the church: Scripture, Reason, and Tradition of the Church while the Medieval Roman Catholic Church was less based on the Bible. Of course the major reason for the split was the dispute between Henry VIII and the Pope, but the Anglican church appears to be steeped in Scripture and has made its way through the split with Rome and through the reformation creating its definite identity.
Now Thursday morning, it is off on the train to catch the ferry to Dublin. The cabbie to the rail station had fun with wild stories - he called them wild too - of sightings of Roman soldiers in chariots under the Minister, and aliens blasting the stained glass windows. Entertaining to say the least!
Sunday, May 8, 2011
The Planning Begins
And the 60th birthday trip was gradually birthed through the Fall of 2010. My dear friend, Karen, and I would do about 10 days as a girl trip and then our husbands - aka "the boys" (the Mikes)- would join us. There were family birthdays, golf tournaments, William and Kate's wedding - all the events of life to consider. After much dithering and wondering and postulating, Karen and I decided on a time frame for our trip: leaving May 9, 2011.
From there, the planning began in earnest. It became really clear that details would best be arranged if we spent time in the same place - planning from Lawrence, Kansas to Amarillo, Texas was NOT working well at all. So Heather, that would be me, planned a trip to Amarillo in January to plan the BIG trip.
Doing all this on our own, we discovered, was a huge pile of work. Coordinating 4 flights for people leaving from different places, arriving at different times and returning to the USA on different days for a reasonable air fare proved to be a daunting task for two NON travel agents. WHEW! At the end of an entire day, and nearly developing a case of computer screen vision and cramped fingers, we had managed the task. Somewhere around 4:00 pm. Karen's Mike announced that Happy hour was a requirement - we AGREED! I believe we accomplished more in one day, however, the Congress does in a month - or maybe a year. Pizza and beer at 575 - a refreshing and relaxing end to the day's task.
And next a look at accommodations.
From there, the planning began in earnest. It became really clear that details would best be arranged if we spent time in the same place - planning from Lawrence, Kansas to Amarillo, Texas was NOT working well at all. So Heather, that would be me, planned a trip to Amarillo in January to plan the BIG trip.
Doing all this on our own, we discovered, was a huge pile of work. Coordinating 4 flights for people leaving from different places, arriving at different times and returning to the USA on different days for a reasonable air fare proved to be a daunting task for two NON travel agents. WHEW! At the end of an entire day, and nearly developing a case of computer screen vision and cramped fingers, we had managed the task. Somewhere around 4:00 pm. Karen's Mike announced that Happy hour was a requirement - we AGREED! I believe we accomplished more in one day, however, the Congress does in a month - or maybe a year. Pizza and beer at 575 - a refreshing and relaxing end to the day's task.
And next a look at accommodations.
In the beginning
At least, in the beginning of this very big trip for Toto and friend.
Tomorrow, May 9, 2011, I embark on my much anticipated 60th birthday trip to the British Isles. Planning began back in September or October when Mike, aka hubby, asked where I wanted to go for my 60th birthday trip, adding, "You can pick anywhere you want to go." OOOOO dear, "ANYwhere?" I asked as my heart rate increased.
"Yep, anywhere." he assured me.
"Hmmm, well," as my mind raced - Ireland, Australia, Italy, New Zealand, Austria, the moon - well maybe not the moon.
"If you really mean it, I want to go to Ireland." I pronounced definitely.
And so the seed was sewn, the idea formed.
Tomorrow, May 9, 2011, I embark on my much anticipated 60th birthday trip to the British Isles. Planning began back in September or October when Mike, aka hubby, asked where I wanted to go for my 60th birthday trip, adding, "You can pick anywhere you want to go." OOOOO dear, "ANYwhere?" I asked as my heart rate increased.
"Yep, anywhere." he assured me.
"Hmmm, well," as my mind raced - Ireland, Australia, Italy, New Zealand, Austria, the moon - well maybe not the moon.
"If you really mean it, I want to go to Ireland." I pronounced definitely.
And so the seed was sewn, the idea formed.
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