And now lovely Argyll

XVI BLOG Toto Travels
26 May, Thursday


We were up early, daylight before 5:00 am makes that difficult to avoid, although we both did go back to sleep for a while.  There was a half bath in our room with the shower downstairs. I took my stuff down and discovered a very nice-sized and very clean, if old, shower in the main bathroom. It felt great. Water over my body is one of my greatest addictions, I think. Always so therapeutic. 
Breakfast was prepared on Margaret's special Aga stove and was not the full Scottish - at our request -  we didn't have tomatoes, mushrooms, or blood pudding, but it was delicious. 
Margaret asked to join us in a cuppa tea, and I was pleased to have her join us, she told us more stories about her stove, an Aga,  items in the house, her family and the children she had served as nanny.  Her Aga stove is her pride and joy
Her garden area is lovely although she told us she lost trees in the storm of Monday night.  
Margaret bid us goodbye, Mike took our photo amidst Margaret fussing that she looked far from her best, and she pointed us in the direction out of town.
We drove through Irvine, noting some of the sights that George had pointed out the night before, and found our way to the correct road A78 through Largs, and Wemyss Bay (where we had taken the ferry to Rothesay on the Isle of Bute in 2005 with cousin Russ Stocker) toward Glasgow, then turning toward Gourock and the "Western Ferries" on A770.   We followed George's very precise directions to find the ferry crossing for Dunoon.  Away we went across the Firth of Clyde on a small ferry to Hunter's Quay which is a suburb of Dunoon (yes, very tongue- in-cheek), where we stopped for coffee and to get some more detailed maps of Scotland. 

From Dunoon, we are officially in Argyll and the scenery is immediately mountainous and absolutely beautiful, smashing, brilliant, awesome.  Driving A815 along the Firth of Clyde, our first loch is Holy Loch, then on to the western part of Argyll Forest Park, along Loch Eck to A83 to Inveraray.     
Lunch and a break in Inveraray.  Lunch was at the Royal Burgh Restaurant close to the shores of Loch Fyne, delicious fish n chips - what a surprise.  The town of Inveraray is interesting, white buildings and very planned. We learned that the Duke of Argyll (the 2nd or 3rd) wanted a larger estate, so he took most of the then existing town to make it part of his estate. Then he had a town built for the people, still today a trim, neat town with white buildings.  I guess he was a good guy, taking care of the little people.
Our lunch place sits next to a bakery named Mr Pia's. We thought that was entertaining with thoughts of Tom and Pia - Tom becoming known as Mr. Pia.  

Drove through town to Inveraray Castle. I debated briefly about whether it was worth the money, of course Mike said, "Of course, let's go, if you want."  Obviously well maintained and groomed, upon entry we learned that it had been a residence since the 3rd Duke of Argyll. It is now under the 13th Duke, I think. The residence is quite impressive and has been updated and nicely displayed.  Artifacts from the 2nd and 3rd Dukes of Argyll are displayed as well as memorabilia and armory from all past Dukes.   Obviously, they remain an influential family to this day and are part of Clan Campbell, which is the predominant clan in this part of Scotland.

Although we are close to Oban, there is still a ways to go, so time to find our way through more jaw-dropping scenery to the coastal village of Oban. On the A819 to A85 into Oban past picturesque Kilchurn Castle nestled in Loch Awe.  Kilchurn Castle was the seat of the Campbells of Glen Orchy, who later became the Earls of Breadalbane.

Oban is a small fishing village that we visited on a day train trip with Mike's cousins in 2005. We fell in love with it then. The streets are narrow and several are one way as they wind around the contour of the harbour. So we had a misfire or two actually finding Tanglin BnB, but at last, we arrived and were greeted by our hosts, Jim and Liz Montgomery.   After unpacking, our host, Jim, recommended  a restaurant pub just down the street called Cuan Mor.  It was very busy, but we were seated soon and had our beer  and a delicious dinner. Back up the street, in the cold wind, back to Tanglin and tucked in for the evening.