Mull and Iona

28 May, Saturday

Isles of Oban and Mull
We had a lighter breakfast today. Liz fixed us toast and eggs at our request. We asked about the TI office as it appeared to be closed and we could not find another location yesterday. Jim and Liz old us that the roof was damaged from Monday's horrible storm, so it was closed and moved temporarily near the Ferry Port. The storm on Monday here in Scotland had intensified and was worse than when it had blown through Dingle, Ireland on Saturday. On our drive up to Oban we saw a number of uprooted trees. Yesterday on our drive to Fort William, we saw more trees that have now been cleared from the road and were in process of being chopped for firewood.

It is off to the ferry-port to take the ferry from Oban to the Isle of Mull.
Mike decided to drive down and it took as long as it would to walk, but was warmer. He was also concerned about rain and being too tired when we returned.
This morning is actually partly SUNNY as the ferry is set for Mull - sweet!
Boarded a good-sized ferry (Cal-Mac) to go to Craignure, on the east end of Mull. Thank the Lord it was a good sail to Mull. We even had sun for most of the sail and got some decent photos. After the rough sailing on the Irish Sea to Troon, it was a needed and welcome change for us landlocked folk. There was a group of about 8 or 10 golfers loading on the ferry to go play some golf course on Mull. We talked about David and that he would enjoy playing golf on many of the courses in Scotland - and Ireland and England as well.

We saw a few lighthouses coming into port, including Lismore. We were shuffled immediately onto buses. Our Bowman tour bus driver and guide, Steve, is a blond fellow that has been a tour guide and driver for a long time. We are in a long line of tour buses on our way to Fionnphort across from the Island of Iona, the trip takes nearly two hours. Steve described the etiquette regarding driving on one-way roads, which are most of the roads on Mull and drily commented on other drivers we followed or that we met on the road. He kept us entertained with his dry humor.

It was an informative drive over the south and west side of Mull. Mostly glens with not many trees, we learned that irresponsible logging was to blame for the disappearance of the forest. Due to all the recent rain, there were waterfalls over every rock and in every little crevice. Steve recounted stories of funny previous tourists and of bus mishaps – all minor and amusing. He also related much of the history of Mull and described buildings and small towns and how they were when there were more people throughout the countryside. The A849 takes us by Loch Spelve through Glen More to Pennyghael along Loch Scridain. When we were in Ireland, Karen and I had wondered what the lines of little black pots were in many of the bays and loughs and Mike and I had noticed them here in Scotland. Steve told us they were mussel farms, well now we know!

Arriving in Fionnphort, the place has a toilet and small café, a few buildings, but is primarily the ferry port. Of course, there are the compulsory sheep on the beach. On the short ferry ride to Iona, Mike was busy helping a sweet and feisty lady using a walker. Impressive that she and her rather frail spouse, they were from England, undertook the tour bouncing across Mull on a tour bus and across the channel to Iona.

Although visiting Mull and Iona was not in my first plan, Iona, because of its spiritual heritage, is a place I have wanted to experience. So I was eagerly anticipating a brief, two hour visit to Iona.

This first experience with our short visit to Iona was sprinkled with chunks of frustration. It was too short and there were too many tourist bodies. Initially, not realizing we needed to join the queue as soon as possible, we missed the first ferry to Iona - chunk one of my little frustrations.
Knowing we now only had a bit over an hour and a half overwhelmed me as I saw ruins and small museums on the way to Iona Abbey - chunk two of frustration.
I wanted to spend time in each place - the garden area, looking at homes, walking up the hills and around the island visiting other ruins - and all this was before we approached Iona Abbey. Looking at my watch and realizing that Mike would want lunch while we were here was chunk three of my frustration.

We did arrive at Iona Abbey and took part of a tour, then I walked around just soaking up the place and ended in the gift shop. A few quick views of the cemetery, and a look at the coastline and islands from the abbey and we were off to lunch at St. Columba Hotel. Beautiful view and good food for lunch. Something about the islands and the sea and the constant changing light and waves is so peaceful, contemplative, and soothing.

On the way back, Steve told us about the lady that looked at the mussel pots in the distance and asked if they were trained seals performing. Oh dear! Steve said to her, “Of Course, and they were the devil to train, too, took years.” Then he muttered to all of us, “Synchronized seals, so sure.” Don’t know if he actually told her that or not.
He talked about Mull as a filming location and how the movie stars cause quite a stir at times. Pointing out a small loch, he informed us, “Donald Sutherland was filming “Eye of the Needle” and parked his Land Rover in that loch over there.” He also told us that old Donald fell out of a boat in Oban Harbour when he was “pie-eyed.”
As we approached Crairnure, Steve began driving more slowly. We were tired, so it was a bit frustrating until I realized that he was “early” and was trying to time arrival of our bus closer to the ferry departure time for Oban.

It seemed a little bit rougher sea back to Oban, but not bad. I just did not walk around much on the ferry! We were outside on the deck a good bit of the ride back to Oban, thankful for little rain and quite a bit of sunshine.
Once back in Oban, we walked back to the car, and headed south of town for a little side trip I wanted to make. Of course, we ended up lost in Oban again, but eventually found our way to the A816 to A844 and across the Bridge Over the Atlantic to the Isle of Seil. This was a bit of a silly road trip, but I had noticed the postcards 6 years ago when we were here and wanted to drive down to see this “Bridge Over the Atlantic.” We turned around and came back after a few photos and a quick glance at the Tigh-an-Truish pub that sat just across the road. Meaning "House of Trousers" in Gaelic, the story is that after the wearing of kilts was outlawed on the mainland, Highlanders on the island would use this pub to change into trousers when they crossed to the mainland. It was tempting to try to talk Mike into eating there, but I thought I had pushed my luck far enough for the day. Mission accomplished, and the scenery did not disappoint.

On our way back through Oban we stopped at Cuan Mor again for dinner. Mike told me he wanted the “Naked Blond Ale” again and I said “You mean Skinny Blond Ale?”, and we had a laugh. We both had the Skinny Blond Ale and a delicious dinner, fish and chips for Mike and fresh mountain trout for me.
Back to Tanglin BnB to tuck in for the night, with visions of Iona dancing in my head.